{"title":"Fenders \u0026 Guards","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe biggest single category in our catalogue: front and rear fenders (guards\/wings) for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40\/FJ45, Land Rover Defender 90\/110, early Ford Bronco and Datsun 240Z — in steel or aluminium to match the original panel, handed LH\/RH, from part-fenders and half assemblies to complete fender assemblies with mounting structure.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe first panel to die\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eFenders catch everything: stone spray inside the arch, mud packed against the apron, electrolysis at mounting flanges and impacts at every corner. Lower edges and headlight surrounds go first. Because most classic 4x4 fenders bolt on, they're also the most satisfying panel to replace — an afternoon per side transforms the truck.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eChoosing the right fender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eMatch vehicle, side and era; on Defenders also material (alloy outer fenders vs steel assemblies) and whether you need the fender top, half assembly or complete assembly. Product listings state exactly what structure is included.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eBolt-on or welded?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eFront fenders on these platforms bolt on; some rear fenders and inner structures weld — each listing's installation section says which.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhy are some Defender fenders alloy and some steel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe follow the factory: alloy where Solihull used alloy skins, steel where the original assembly was steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eRelated: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-wheel-housings\"\u003einner guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-front-end\"\u003efront end\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ebuying guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-rear-fender-lh","title":"Rear Fender, LH – for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (1960–1984), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-TY65-06L(68)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/strong\u003e. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 is one of the most restored four-wheel drives on earth. Built from 1960 to 1984, the short-wheelbase FJ40 earned its reputation on mine sites, farms and expedition routes across Australia, Africa, South America and North America, powered for most of its life by the 3.9-litre F and 4.2-litre 2F inline-six petrol engines (with BJ40\/HJ45 diesel siblings sharing the same body). Toyota built the FJ40 with simple, flat-stamped panels and a bolt-together tub, which is exactly why so many survive today — and why reproduction body panels can return even a badly corroded example to factory shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBecause the FJ40 worked hard and lived outdoors, nearly every survivor carries rust in the same places: the rear quarter panels and lower corners, the rear sill and floor braces, the tailgate skins, the front fender aprons, the firewall footwells and the windscreen frame. Original Toyota steel was never galvanised, and fifty years of trapped mud between the body and the chassis outriggers does the rest. Replacing rusted sections with correctly stamped reproduction panels is the accepted restoration method — patching heavily pitted original steel almost always costs more in labour than fitting a new panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1960–1984 models as listed above. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 commonly rusts in rear quarter panels, lower rear corners, sills, floor pans, tailgate skins, fender aprons and the firewall footwells, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Toyota.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/toyota-land-cruiser-fj40\"\u003eall Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126707286081,"sku":"SYC-TY65-06L(68)","price":400.88,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-TY65-06L_68_3e8db1c3-f095-4097-9562-b641db8959fd.jpg?v=1783303467"},{"product_id":"toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-rear-fender-rh","title":"Rear Fender, RH – for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (1960–1984), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-TY65-06R(68)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/strong\u003e. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor FJ40, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 is one of the most restored four-wheel drives on earth. Built from 1960 to 1984, the short-wheelbase FJ40 earned its reputation on mine sites, farms and expedition routes across Australia, Africa, South America and North America, powered for most of its life by the 3.9-litre F and 4.2-litre 2F inline-six petrol engines (with BJ40\/HJ45 diesel siblings sharing the same body). Toyota built the FJ40 with simple, flat-stamped panels and a bolt-together tub, which is exactly why so many survive today — and why reproduction body panels can return even a badly corroded example to factory shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBecause the FJ40 worked hard and lived outdoors, nearly every survivor carries rust in the same places: the rear quarter panels and lower corners, the rear sill and floor braces, the tailgate skins, the front fender aprons, the firewall footwells and the windscreen frame. Original Toyota steel was never galvanised, and fifty years of trapped mud between the body and the chassis outriggers does the rest. Replacing rusted sections with correctly stamped reproduction panels is the accepted restoration method — patching heavily pitted original steel almost always costs more in labour than fitting a new panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1960–1984 models as listed above. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 commonly rusts in rear quarter panels, lower rear corners, sills, floor pans, tailgate skins, fender aprons and the firewall footwells, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Toyota.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/toyota-land-cruiser-fj40\"\u003eall Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126707318849,"sku":"SYC-TY65-06R(68)","price":400.88,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-TY65-06R_68_6bcfa813-f321-4f46-b9c7-32455ade1374.jpg?v=1783303469"},{"product_id":"datsun-240z-front-fender-lh","title":"Front Fender, LH – for Datsun 240Z (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica front fender for 1969-1973 Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNissan \/ Datsun 240Z\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1969-1973\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-NS42-05L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eNissan \/ Datsun 240Z\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1969-1973\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed 1969–1973 fit the 240Z (S30); many pressings carry over to the 260Z with detail changes — compare flange and trim-hole locations if fitting to a later S30. The 240Z is a unibody: structural panels should be welded in at factory seams by a competent welder.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Datsun 240Z (Nissan S30, 1969–1973) changed the sports car market: a 2.4-litre overhead-cam six, independent suspension and coupe styling at a price that undercut everything from Europe. It also became one of the most rust-prone classics of its era. Nissan's thin-gauge unibody steel, minimal factory rust-proofing and moisture-trapping box sections mean that nearly every surviving S30 needs structural and cosmetic sheet metal during restoration. With concours 240Z values now well into six figures, correctly stamped reproduction panels have become essential to the market.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe S30 rusts everywhere moisture settles: floor pans and frame rails, dogleg and rocker sections, rear quarters and wheel arches, the battery tray and surrounding cowl, front fenders around the headlight buckets, and the hatch slam panel. Because the 240Z is a unibody, replacing corroded panels properly — with correct-profile steel welded at factory seam locations — is a structural repair, not just a cosmetic one.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1969-1973 models as listed above. Panels listed 1969–1973 fit the 240Z (S30); many pressings carry over to the 260Z with detail changes — compare flange and trim-hole locations if fitting to a later S30. The 240Z is a unibody: structural panels should be welded in at factory seams by a competent welder.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z commonly rusts in floor pans and rails, doglegs and rockers, rear quarters, the battery tray area, front fenders and the hatch surround, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/datsun-240z\"\u003eall Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126707417153,"sku":"SYC-NS42-05L","price":500.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-NS42-05L_3ae987f1-f4b8-4371-b365-37da0a8d1ff0.jpg?v=1783303472"},{"product_id":"datsun-240z-front-fender-rh","title":"Front Fender, RH – for Datsun 240Z (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z (1969-1973), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNissan \/ Datsun 240Z\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1969-1973\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-NS42-05R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eNissan \/ Datsun 240Z\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1969-1973\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed 1969–1973 fit the 240Z (S30); many pressings carry over to the 260Z with detail changes — compare flange and trim-hole locations if fitting to a later S30. The 240Z is a unibody: structural panels should be welded in at factory seams by a competent welder.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Datsun 240Z (Nissan S30, 1969–1973) changed the sports car market: a 2.4-litre overhead-cam six, independent suspension and coupe styling at a price that undercut everything from Europe. It also became one of the most rust-prone classics of its era. Nissan's thin-gauge unibody steel, minimal factory rust-proofing and moisture-trapping box sections mean that nearly every surviving S30 needs structural and cosmetic sheet metal during restoration. With concours 240Z values now well into six figures, correctly stamped reproduction panels have become essential to the market.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe S30 rusts everywhere moisture settles: floor pans and frame rails, dogleg and rocker sections, rear quarters and wheel arches, the battery tray and surrounding cowl, front fenders around the headlight buckets, and the hatch slam panel. Because the 240Z is a unibody, replacing corroded panels properly — with correct-profile steel welded at factory seam locations — is a structural repair, not just a cosmetic one.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1969-1973 models as listed above. Panels listed 1969–1973 fit the 240Z (S30); many pressings carry over to the 260Z with detail changes — compare flange and trim-hole locations if fitting to a later S30. The 240Z is a unibody: structural panels should be welded in at factory seams by a competent welder.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z commonly rusts in floor pans and rails, doglegs and rockers, rear quarters, the battery tray area, front fenders and the hatch surround, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/datsun-240z\"\u003eall Nissan \/ Datsun 240Z panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126707449921,"sku":"SYC-NS42-05R","price":500.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-NS42-05R_a33b36d1-ce85-412d-94d8-7036bc2e6a98.jpg?v=1783303474"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-wing-assembly-asb710210-lh","title":"Front Wing Assembly Asb710210, LH – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front wing assembly asb710210 is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1998), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint. Suits applications with part reference \u003cstrong\u003eALR9935,ASB710210\u003c\/strong\u003e (reference numbers are listed for identification only).\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1998\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePart reference\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eALR9935,ASB710210\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05UP(ASSY)-L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1998\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1998 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDoes it suit applications with part reference ALR9935,ASB710210?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — this replica panel is made to suit applications that used reference number ALR9935,ASB710210. The number is listed for identification purposes only.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126709186625,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05UP(ASSY)-L","price":234.9,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05UP_ASSY_-L_028becfc-6839-4da9-b6f4-643350259a69.jpg?v=1783303505"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-wing-assembly-asb710200-rh","title":"Front Wing Assembly Asb710200, RH – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front wing assembly asb710200 suits 1998 Land Rover Defender builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler. Suits applications with part reference \u003cstrong\u003eALR9936, ASB710200\u003c\/strong\u003e (reference numbers are listed for identification only).\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1998\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePart reference\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eALR9936, ASB710200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05UP(ASSY)-R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1998\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1998 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDoes it suit applications with part reference ALR9936, ASB710200?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — this replica panel is made to suit applications that used reference number ALR9936, ASB710200. The number is listed for identification purposes only.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126709219393,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05UP(ASSY)-R","price":234.9,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05UP_ASSY_-R_5a8512ec-bb24-4f67-8178-6b5e2816e0c4.jpg?v=1783303507"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-up-lh","title":"Front Fender Up, LH – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel \u0026 Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender up suits 1998 Land Rover Defender builds, left-hand (LH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel \u0026amp; aluminium to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1998\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel \u0026amp; Aluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05(UP)-L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1998\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel \u0026amp; aluminium from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1998 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel \u0026amp; aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126709252161,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05(UP)-L","price":300.66,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05_UP_-L_c81390ad-1f55-4587-b78f-a10914dbf940.jpg?v=1783303508"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-wing-up-rh","title":"Front Wing Up, RH – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front wing up is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1998), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1998\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05(UP)-R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1998\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1998 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126709284929,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05(UP)-R","price":160.57,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05_UP_-R-002_a90cd28d-1d14-48dd-a1ba-ea80105522f5.jpg?v=1783303509"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-110-fender","title":"Fender – for Land Rover Defender 110 (ABS Plastic)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica fender suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in abs plastic to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eABS Plastic\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new abs plastic — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126711316545,"sku":"SYC-LR01-50","price":72.38,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/9466ED3D-1D54-4DC4-A2E5-B842F2861094.jpg?v=1783303520"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-fender","title":"Fender – for Land Rover Defender 90 (ABS Plastic)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica fender suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in abs plastic to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eABS Plastic\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-51\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new abs plastic — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126711349313,"sku":"SYC-LR01-51","price":72.38,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/EF33498C-115F-4664-BFC9-0E6164B96A58_48368260-6c01-4aeb-99ea-6faeedcfac22.jpg?v=1783303520"},{"product_id":"toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-rear-fender-lh-steel","title":"Rear Fender, LH (1979-1984) – for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (1979-1984), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1979-1984\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-TY65-06L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1979-1984\u003c\/strong\u003e. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 is one of the most restored four-wheel drives on earth. Built from 1960 to 1984, the short-wheelbase FJ40 earned its reputation on mine sites, farms and expedition routes across Australia, Africa, South America and North America, powered for most of its life by the 3.9-litre F and 4.2-litre 2F inline-six petrol engines (with BJ40\/HJ45 diesel siblings sharing the same body). Toyota built the FJ40 with simple, flat-stamped panels and a bolt-together tub, which is exactly why so many survive today — and why reproduction body panels can return even a badly corroded example to factory shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBecause the FJ40 worked hard and lived outdoors, nearly every survivor carries rust in the same places: the rear quarter panels and lower corners, the rear sill and floor braces, the tailgate skins, the front fender aprons, the firewall footwells and the windscreen frame. Original Toyota steel was never galvanised, and fifty years of trapped mud between the body and the chassis outriggers does the rest. Replacing rusted sections with correctly stamped reproduction panels is the accepted restoration method — patching heavily pitted original steel almost always costs more in labour than fitting a new panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1979-1984 models as listed above. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 commonly rusts in rear quarter panels, lower rear corners, sills, floor pans, tailgate skins, fender aprons and the firewall footwells, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Toyota.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/toyota-land-cruiser-fj40\"\u003eall Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126711644225,"sku":"SYC-TY65-06L","price":500.62,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-TY65-06L-006_4f2b1276-7389-47f1-b9f9-6eb1c5c86e7e.jpg?v=1783303532"},{"product_id":"toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-rear-fender-rh-steel","title":"Rear Fender, RH (1979-1984) – for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica rear fender suits 1979-1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1979-1984\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-TY65-06R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1979-1984\u003c\/strong\u003e. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor FJ40, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 is one of the most restored four-wheel drives on earth. Built from 1960 to 1984, the short-wheelbase FJ40 earned its reputation on mine sites, farms and expedition routes across Australia, Africa, South America and North America, powered for most of its life by the 3.9-litre F and 4.2-litre 2F inline-six petrol engines (with BJ40\/HJ45 diesel siblings sharing the same body). Toyota built the FJ40 with simple, flat-stamped panels and a bolt-together tub, which is exactly why so many survive today — and why reproduction body panels can return even a badly corroded example to factory shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBecause the FJ40 worked hard and lived outdoors, nearly every survivor carries rust in the same places: the rear quarter panels and lower corners, the rear sill and floor braces, the tailgate skins, the front fender aprons, the firewall footwells and the windscreen frame. Original Toyota steel was never galvanised, and fifty years of trapped mud between the body and the chassis outriggers does the rest. Replacing rusted sections with correctly stamped reproduction panels is the accepted restoration method — patching heavily pitted original steel almost always costs more in labour than fitting a new panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1979-1984 models as listed above. FJ40 bodies changed in detail over the production run — most noticeably at the 1973–74 update and the 1979 facelift — so always match the panel to your build year and compare pressings with your original before final fitting. Left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive bodies share most panels; firewall, dash and some cowl parts are drive-side specific.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 commonly rusts in rear quarter panels, lower rear corners, sills, floor pans, tailgate skins, fender aprons and the firewall footwells, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Toyota.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/toyota-land-cruiser-fj40\"\u003eall Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126711676993,"sku":"SYC-TY65-06R","price":500.62,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SY-TY65-06R_aeb76d82-81d1-470a-a2c3-d0c49fc81942.jpg?v=1783303533"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-lh","title":"Front Fender Assembly, LH (1998) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica front fender assembly for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in aluminium to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126712856641,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)","price":779.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05L_ASSY_b4e383cd-0913-4e57-81c2-011c8fe805bb.jpg?v=1783303569"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-lh-aluminium","title":"Front Fender Assembly, LH (Td4) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender assembly suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, left-hand (LH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in aluminium to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126712889409,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)-1","price":779.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05L_ASSY_-1_e5b20437-5e1a-4a37-8109-ddc7fe2d6d3c.jpg?v=1783303570"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-lh-steel","title":"Front Fender Assembly, LH (Td4) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica front fender assembly for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)-2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126712922177,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)-2","price":779.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05L_ASSY_-2_4b6d8ed3-acbb-4fca-8020-01c305c008e9.jpg?v=1783303572"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-lh-2","title":"Front Fender Assembly, LH (Tdi) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica front fender assembly for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)-3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126712954945,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05L(ASSY)-3","price":779.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05L_ASSY_-3_464f8fe8-d127-49bd-9d7d-09d0f7617312.jpg?v=1783303573"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-rh","title":"Front Fender Assembly, RH (1998) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica front fender assembly for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, right-hand (RH) side. Stamped in aluminium to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight aluminium from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126712987713,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)","price":801.76,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05R_ASSY_e2242738-9141-4268-a7b2-1cb5b86df9ae.jpg?v=1783303574"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-rh-aluminium","title":"Front Fender Assembly, RH (Td4) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender assembly suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in aluminium to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713020481,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)-1","price":801.76,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05R_ASSY_-1_03ad4ba9-6a76-411c-97a4-412ec3ad2eb3.jpg?v=1783303576"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-rh-steel","title":"Front Fender Assembly, RH (Td4) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender assembly suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)-2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713053249,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)-2","price":801.76,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05R_ASSY_-2_edada0f6-f58b-4c90-a38a-b20e600d55a0.jpg?v=1783303577"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-assembly-rh-2","title":"Front Fender Assembly, RH (Tdi) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender assembly suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)-3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713086017,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05R(ASSY)-3","price":801.76,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05R_ASSY_6d17a377-213c-4541-b7c1-f178bb65a6bc.jpg?v=1783303578"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-lh","title":"Front Fender, LH (1998) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in aluminium to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05L-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713118785,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05L-1","price":400.88,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05L-1_43d554f8-3fb0-4df8-b9e7-b32b07bfcea2.jpg?v=1783303580"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-lh-aluminium","title":"Front Fender, LH (Tdi) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, left-hand (LH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in aluminium to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight aluminium from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713151553,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05L","price":779.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05L_bd96993a-8877-4edb-89af-e634981e6d32.jpg?v=1783303581"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-rh","title":"Front Fender, RH (1998) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in aluminium to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05R-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713184321,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05R-1","price":400.88,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05R-1_c5a47c2c-f775-45e8-956c-c2fbcba8952e.jpg?v=1783303582"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-front-fender-rh-aluminium","title":"Front Fender, RH (Tdi) – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica front fender for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, right-hand (RH) side. Stamped in aluminium to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713217089,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05R","price":400.88,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05R_91aadfdd-0a39-49d3-8dd9-168cc5ed41b3.jpg?v=1783303584"},{"product_id":"toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-fj45-front-fender-rhd-lh","title":"Front Fender RHD, LH – for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026 FJ45 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45 (1960–1984), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint. This panel suits \u003cstrong\u003eRHD\u003c\/strong\u003e (​right-hand-drive) vehicles.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eDrive configuration\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRHD\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-TY65-05L-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/strong\u003e. This panel fits both FJ40 and FJ45 40-Series bodies. Match your build year and compare pressings with the original panel before final welding, as Toyota revised details across the production run.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor FJ45, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eToyota's 40-Series Land Cruiser — the short-wheelbase FJ40 and long-wheelbase FJ45 — was built from 1960 into the mid-1980s and has become one of the world's most valuable and most restored classic 4x4 platforms. The two models share their front sheet metal, windscreen frame, firewall and much of the cab structure, which is why many reproduction panels fit both. Simple flat-stamped steel construction makes the 40-Series unusually restoration-friendly: panels unbolt or drill out at factory spot-welds and new steel goes in the same way it left the Arakawa body plant.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery unrestored 40-Series carries corrosion in predictable places — quarters, sills, floors, tailgates, fender aprons and footwells — because Toyota never galvanised the originals. Reproduction panels pressed to factory profiles are the fastest, most cost-effective route back to a straight body.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1960–1984 models as listed above. This panel fits both FJ40 and FJ45 40-Series bodies. Match your build year and compare pressings with the original panel before final welding, as Toyota revised details across the production run.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45 commonly rusts in quarter panels, sills, floor pans, tailgates, fender aprons and footwells, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Toyota.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/toyota-land-cruiser-fj40\"\u003eall Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45 panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713249857,"sku":"SYC-TY65-05L-1","price":496.78,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-TY65-05L-1_9939e1ed-07d8-418e-a3ff-a19dca5a2c60.jpg?v=1783303585"},{"product_id":"toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-fj45-front-fender-rhd-rh","title":"Front Fender RHD, RH – for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026 FJ45 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender suits 1960–1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45 builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler. This panel suits \u003cstrong\u003eRHD\u003c\/strong\u003e (​right-hand-drive) vehicles.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eDrive configuration\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRHD\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-TY65-05R-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eToyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1960–1984\u003c\/strong\u003e. This panel fits both FJ40 and FJ45 40-Series bodies. Match your build year and compare pressings with the original panel before final welding, as Toyota revised details across the production run.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor FJ45, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eToyota's 40-Series Land Cruiser — the short-wheelbase FJ40 and long-wheelbase FJ45 — was built from 1960 into the mid-1980s and has become one of the world's most valuable and most restored classic 4x4 platforms. The two models share their front sheet metal, windscreen frame, firewall and much of the cab structure, which is why many reproduction panels fit both. Simple flat-stamped steel construction makes the 40-Series unusually restoration-friendly: panels unbolt or drill out at factory spot-welds and new steel goes in the same way it left the Arakawa body plant.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery unrestored 40-Series carries corrosion in predictable places — quarters, sills, floors, tailgates, fender aprons and footwells — because Toyota never galvanised the originals. Reproduction panels pressed to factory profiles are the fastest, most cost-effective route back to a straight body.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1960–1984 models as listed above. This panel fits both FJ40 and FJ45 40-Series bodies. Match your build year and compare pressings with the original panel before final welding, as Toyota revised details across the production run.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45 commonly rusts in quarter panels, sills, floor pans, tailgates, fender aprons and footwells, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Toyota.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/toyota-land-cruiser-fj40\"\u003eall Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 \u0026amp; FJ45 panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126713282625,"sku":"SYC-TY65-05R-1","price":496.78,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-TY65-05R-1_be95cf94-4460-4486-bb9c-5d7584652234.jpg?v=1783303586"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-110-rear-fender-assembly-lh","title":"Rear Fender Assembly, LH – for Land Rover Defender 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender assembly is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in aluminium to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06L(110）ASSY\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714560577,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06L(110）ASSY","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/EE216336-CF12-4283-A8F2-2026A27B148D_a32583e5-baba-4be9-b56e-ede1987751b4.jpg?v=1783303624"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-rear-fender-assembly-lh","title":"Rear Fender Assembly, LH – for Land Rover Defender 90 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender assembly is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in aluminium to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06L(90）ASSY\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714593345,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06L(90）ASSY","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-06L_90_ASSY_d614b59f-f969-4b01-b5a5-3fa68fb48807.jpg?v=1783303626"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-110-rear-fender-assembly-rh","title":"Rear Fender Assembly, RH – for Land Rover Defender 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica rear fender assembly suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in aluminium to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06R(110）ASSY\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight aluminium from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714626113,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06R(110）ASSY","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/F50C00AF-1901-4719-B596-0610E9967D83_f119a0b3-a262-4584-b5c2-f40d6ba800dd.jpg?v=1783303627"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-110-rear-fender-lh","title":"Rear Fender, LH – for Land Rover Defender 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in aluminium to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06L(110）\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714658881,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06L(110）","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/D0480C2E-143D-4B62-B45A-5777CCF370AF_402f4fcb-2644-4df6-9d34-5c6d9ddfe699.jpg?v=1783303627"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-rear-fender-lh","title":"Rear Fender, LH – for Land Rover Defender 90 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in aluminium to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06L(90）\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714691649,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06L(90）","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/4C9D0183-FD53-4F9A-AF87-4BABCEEFC4C6_38400b35-62b1-4545-82e7-ef1b55e8d799.jpg?v=1783303628"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-rear-fender-assembly-rh","title":"Rear Fender Assembly, RH – for Land Rover Defender 90 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica rear fender assembly suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds, right-hand (RH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in aluminium to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06R(90）ASSY\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight aluminium from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714724417,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06R(90）ASSY","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-06R_90_ASSY_4a58b26b-3cb4-401e-b159-0950477737ac.jpg?v=1783303630"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-110-rear-fender-rh","title":"Rear Fender, RH – for Land Rover Defender 110 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica rear fender for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, right-hand (RH) side. Stamped in aluminium to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06R(110）\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight aluminium from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714757185,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06R(110）","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/33D7F404-060E-4B80-9D3A-EEA1D30F385B_e7b0694f-5a2a-4e27-ad5a-1041f0b738e2.jpg?v=1783303631"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-rear-fender-rh","title":"Rear Fender, RH – for Land Rover Defender 90 (Aluminium)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica rear fender for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, right-hand (RH) side. Stamped in aluminium to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eEngine era\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTd4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-06R(90）\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e, Td4\/Puma (2007–2016), Tdi (1990–1998) era. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new aluminium — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126714789953,"sku":"SYC-LR01-06R(90）","price":598.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/A84E77EB-E170-4F9F-8F94-F9AD18C29F2D_476ffe32-5c89-45d1-8b07-9ebe5ffb3151.jpg?v=1783303631"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-front-fender-lh","title":"Front Fender, LH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica front fender suits 1966–1977 Ford Bronco (First Generation) builds, left-hand (LH) side and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in steel to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-05L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Generation), no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126715707457,"sku":"SYC-FD44-05L","price":344.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-05L_3283bbfc-47d5-48d7-bebd-bec8b5512238.jpg?v=1783303650"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-front-fender-rh","title":"Front Fender, RH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis front fender is a precision replica fender made to suit the Ford Bronco (First Generation) (1966–1977), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-05R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Generation), no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126715740225,"sku":"SYC-FD44-05R","price":344.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-05R_346949a7-5d9e-4f2c-870b-ae690bce5150.jpg?v=1783303651"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-rear-fender-low-lh","title":"Rear Fender Low, LH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica rear fender low for 1966–1977 Ford Bronco (First Generation) restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-06L(LOW)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126716559425,"sku":"SYC-FD44-06L(LOW)","price":466.21,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-06L_LOW_a1a9acff-cad0-4ed5-9f54-e840590e2461.jpg?v=1783303666"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-rear-fender-up-lh","title":"Rear Fender Up, LH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica rear fender up for 1966–1977 Ford Bronco (First Generation) restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-06L(UP)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126716592193,"sku":"SYC-FD44-06L(UP)","price":205.21,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-06L_UP_ce45274c-3662-436f-aa1c-2a63ef586aa5.jpg?v=1783303667"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-rear-fender-up-rh","title":"Rear Fender Up, RH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear fender up is a precision replica fender made to suit the Ford Bronco (First Generation) (1966–1977), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-06R(UP)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Generation), no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126716657729,"sku":"SYC-FD44-06R(UP)","price":205.21,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-06R_UP_752ebfde-7d89-4d32-a9c7-9bebaa83842a.jpg?v=1783303668"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-rear-uncut-fender-low-lh","title":"Rear Uncut Fender Low, LH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica rear uncut fender low for 1966–1977 Ford Bronco (First Generation) restorations, left-hand (LH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-06L(LOW)(W\/O)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight steel from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Generation), no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126716756033,"sku":"SYC-FD44-06L(LOW)(W\/O)","price":559.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-06L_LOW_W-O_cfa8218f-3bcc-46c7-8d64-68f4354b9149.jpg?v=1783303670"},{"product_id":"ford-bronco-1966-77-rear-uncut-fender-low-rh","title":"Rear Uncut Fender Low, RH – for Ford Bronco 1966–77 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis rear uncut fender low is a precision replica fender made to suit the Ford Bronco (First Generation) (1966–1977), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the right-hand (RH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-FD44-06R(LOW)(W\/0)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eFord Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1966–1977\u003c\/strong\u003e. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Ford Bronco (First Generation) body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Ford Bronco (First Generation)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe first-generation Ford Bronco, built from 1966 to 1977, has gone from farm truck to blue-chip collectible — early uncut Broncos now trade at prices that justify full body-off restorations. Ford built the early Bronco with a fully boxed frame and a simple welded steel body offered as a wagon, half-cab pickup and (briefly) roadster. Because so many Broncos had their rear quarters cut for larger tyres in the 1970s and 80s, straight original sheet metal is scarce, and complete reproduction bodies, cabs and individual stamped panels are now central to the Bronco restoration industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eEarly Broncos rust in the usual Ford truck places: floor pans front and rear, rocker panels, inner and outer rear quarters, wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and the tailgate. The good news is that virtually every panel on a 1966–1977 Bronco is reproduced to a high standard, so builders can replace entire corroded assemblies — or start from a complete new body — rather than repairing pitted original steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Ford Bronco (First Generation)?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1966–1977 models as listed above. Panels listed for 1966–1977 fit all first-generation Broncos unless noted; 1966–1968 trucks differ in some trim and grille details, and 'uncut' rear quarters restore the factory wheel-arch line on trucks whose arches were cut. Test-fit before paint, as with any reproduction panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Ford Bronco (First Generation) commonly rusts in floor pans, rockers, rear quarters and wheel housings, fender aprons, door bottoms and tailgates, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/ford-bronco-1966-77\"\u003eall Ford Bronco (First Generation) panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126716788801,"sku":"SYC-FD44-06R(LOW)(W\/0)","price":559.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-FD44-06R_LOW_W-0.jpg?v=1783303671"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-wheel-brow","title":"Wheel Brow – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (ABS Plastic)","description":"\u003cp\u003eSave your restoration hours for the work that shows: this replica wheel brow suits 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender builds and replaces panels that would cost more in repair labour than they are worth. Manufactured in abs plastic to match the original pressing, it fits the way the panel it replaces once did — without the rust, dents or filler.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eABS Plastic\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-43\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWhy replace instead of repair\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery hour spent cutting corrosion out of an original panel is an hour not spent finishing the vehicle — and rust repair is the most open-ended line in any restoration budget. A new replica fender gives you a fixed cost, a known timeline and straight abs plastic from day one. No hunting classifieds for a donor Defender, no cutting up a survivor for one usable panel, no discovering that the ‘solid’ second-hand panel you shipped across the country rusted the same way yours did.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new abs plastic — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126719672385,"sku":"SYC-LR01-43","price":167.03,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/DA5AC891-AE53-46AD-904A-BA21A116B2C8_3d4e1056-04b2-4f73-bfff-3dc4fde96577.jpg?v=1783303721"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-wheel-cover-lh","title":"Wheel Cover, LH – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis wheel cover is a precision replica fender made to suit the Land Rover Defender (1983–2016), pressed in steel to the original-style profile for the left-hand (LH) side. Instead of spending weekends cutting rust out of fifty-year-old steel — or hunting down a donor vehicle for one usable panel — you start with straight, new metal that is ready for preparation and paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05(INNDER)-L\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSkip the rust bucket rescue\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe oldroute to a straight Land Rover Defender body was buying a second parts vehicle and hoping its fender was better than yours. That gamble costs storage, freight and usually disappointment — donor panels carry the same decades of corrosion in the same places. New replica steel ends the cycle: predictable cost, predictable fit, and every panel of your actual vehicle preserved.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126719705153,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05(INNDER)-L","price":240.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05_INNDER_-L_c7a90a56-0ee1-4fea-ba4d-74cf914cef29.jpg?v=1783303722"},{"product_id":"land-rover-defender-90-110-wheel-cover-rh","title":"Wheel Cover, RH – for Land Rover Defender 90 \u0026 110 (Steel)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct-fit replica wheel cover for 1983–2016 Land Rover Defender restorations, right-hand (RH) side. Stamped in steel to original-style contours so it lines up with existing seams, gaps and hardware locations — the fastest route from rust bucket to straight body without sacrificing a donor car.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003ePanel type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFenders \u0026amp; Guards\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSteel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSide\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRI\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eSKU\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYC-LR01-05(INNDER)-R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplied ready for prep and paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eInstallation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEasy to Moderate — approx. 2–4 hours per side\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth scope=\"row\"\u003eWelding required\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNo — bolt-on \/ transfer fit\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFitment \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis fender fits the \u003cstrong\u003eLand Rover Defender\u003c\/strong\u003e, model years \u003cstrong\u003e1983–2016\u003c\/strong\u003e. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs with any reproduction panel, trial-fit against the vehicle before final welding or paint. Minor adjustment at flanges and mounting points is a normal part of professional panel fitting, even with precision replica pressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eThe maths of new steel\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eRestorers rarely regret buying a new panel; they regret the three weekends spent trying to save an old one first. Repairing a corroded fender means paying for blasting, fabrication time and filler — and the result is still fifty-year-old metal. A replica pressing costs a known amount, arrives straight, and spares a donor vehicle from being cut up for parts. Your original panel can stay with the vehicle for provenance; your build gets metal you can trust.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Land Rover Defender\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Land Rover Defender — and the One Ten \/ Ninety models that preceded the name — was built in Solihull from 1983 to 2016 on a body architecture Land Rover kept deliberately simple: aluminium alloy outer panels (Birmabright-derived alloys) hung on a steel bulkhead, steel door frames and a steel ladder chassis. That mix is the Defender's blessing and its curse. The alloy skins shrug off surface rust, but the steel structure beneath — bulkhead, door frames, B- and C-pillars, crossmembers and the boot floor supports — corrodes aggressively, and galvanic reaction where alloy meets steel eats panels from the joint outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDefenders span three main mechanical eras that matter for body parts: the coil-sprung Tdi era (200Tdi\/300Tdi, 1990–1998), the Td5 era (1998–2007) and the Puma\/Td4 era (2007–2016). Body details — dash and bulkhead pressings, fender tops, door construction, seat boxes and floor assemblies — changed at each step, so Defender panels are usually listed as Tdi, Td5 or Td4\/Puma specific. With production ended and Land Rover Classic parts pricing climbing, quality reproduction panels have become the standard way to keep working Defenders and restoration builds on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifficulty:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate  |  \u003cstrong\u003eTypical time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–4 hours per side  |  \u003cstrong\u003eWelding required:\u003c\/strong\u003e no.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMost classic 4x4 and truck fenders bolt on. Strip the lights and trim from the old panel, test-fit the new fender loose, and set the gaps against the door and hood before final tightening — fender-to-door gap is the one everyone sees. Seal the mounting flanges and inject cavity wax along the lower edge, which is where the original died.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTools:\u003c\/strong\u003e basic hand tools, panel clips, seam sealer, cavity wax.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon mistakes to avoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e bolting up tight before gapping, forgetting anti-corrosion treatment on the hidden flanges, and re-using crushed mounting hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eQuality \u0026amp; Manufacturing\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eBodyBros replica panels are pressed on dedicated tooling developed from measured original panels, in automotive-grade material matched to the application. Pressings are checked against reference bucks for profile, flange geometry and hole placement before packing. Steel panels are supplied with a protective primer coating ready for preparation and refinishing; alloy and plastic parts are supplied ready to prepare and paint. These are aftermarket replica restoration parts — manufactured by BodyBros, not by the original vehicle maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWorldwide Delivery\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eWe ship worldwide — including the United States, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Panels are packed in purpose-built cartons or timber crates depending on size; large assemblies travel by sea or air freight with tracking. Duties and taxes are calculated at checkout or on arrival depending on destination. See our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/shipping\"\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Delivery\u003c\/a\u003e page for lead times to your region.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWill this fender fit my Land Rover Defender?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt fits 1983–2016 models as listed above. Defender 90 and 110 share most front-end and bulkhead panels; rear body, floor, sill and roof parts are usually wheelbase-specific. Always match the panel to your era — Tdi (1990–1998), Td5 (1998–2007) or Td4\/Puma (2007–2016) — and to 90 or 110 as listed. Left- and right-hand-drive matter for bulkhead, dash and some fittings.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIs welding required to install it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo. This part installs as a bolt-on or transfer fit using standard hand tools — see the installation notes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eCan it replace a rusted original panel?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes — that is exactly what it is made for. The Land Rover Defender commonly rusts in the steel bulkhead and footwells, door frames and bottoms, B\/C-pillars, rear crossmember, seat box and floor supports — plus galvanic corrosion wherever alloy panels meet steel, and this replica pressing replaces corroded original metal with new steel — no donor vehicle required.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eDo you ship this internationally?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eYes. We ship worldwide with tracked freight; larger panels and assemblies travel in purpose-built crates. Delivery times and freight options for your country are shown at checkout and on our Shipping page.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhat finish does the panel arrive in?\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt arrives ready for preparation and paint. Like any replacement body panel, it should be test-fitted, prepared and refinished before final installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eBodyBros is an independent manufacturer of replica restoration panels. Vehicle make and model names are used for fitment identification only; BodyBros products are aftermarket parts and BodyBros is not affiliated with or endorsed by Land Rover (Jaguar Land Rover).\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eExplore more: \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/land-rover-defender\"\u003eall Land Rover Defender panels\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/panels-fenders\"\u003efenders \u0026amp; guards\u003c\/a\u003e · \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/knowledge\/choosing-reproduction-body-panels\"\u003ehow to choose reproduction panels\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BodyBros","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44126719737921,"sku":"SYC-LR01-05(INNDER)-R","price":240.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0736\/1468\/8321\/files\/SYC-LR01-05_INNDER_-R_45f635fb-eb25-457c-a1d2-434ec5b51390.jpg?v=1783303723"}],"url":"https:\/\/rebornretros.com\/collections\/panels-fenders.oembed?page=2","provider":"classicbody","version":"1.0","type":"link"}